CULTIVATING TASTE

Coffee Growing 101

by Phil Beattie

LOCATION

We are all aware that to have a successful coffee shop, or roastery for that matter, you have to find the perfect location. This is true for coffee farms too, but for different reasons.

Geography

Coffee is grown between the tropics of Capricorn and Cancer. As you move either north or south of these latitudes, the risk of frost increases. Frost can devastate a coffee plantation by turning the coffee trees leaves brown, and in severe cases, completely wiping out the trees’ foliage.
     The microclimate of a location also impacts how well the coffee will grow. Certain areas that have extreme winds are not as suitable for growing coffee, as the winds can hinder the maturation of young trees and knock blossoms and cherries off the tree. If the farm happens to lie in a convergence zone, it will receive too much rain. This will not allow for a predictable harvest cycle.

Elevation

Another factor that plays a role in creating quality coffee is elevation. As you go higher in elevation, the potential for unique-tasting coffees increases. The reason is that coffee grows slower at high altitudes, producing a harder bean. A hard bean generally will possess a crisper, higher level of acidity. For example, a Brazilian Sul Minas, which is grown at around 2,000 feet, can have a mild nutty flavor, but it will not have the high acidity of a coffee grown at higher elevation. Not only does a harder bean increase acidity levels, it also goes through processing with less chance of physical damage.
     Coffee flourishes at an average temperature of 68 degrees. If the average temperature goes much higher or lower, the tree will become unhealthy and produce a sub-par crop. This is the balance that a farm must keep. The trees must be high enough to produce great-tasting coffees, but not so high that they can get frost. The closer you get to the equator, the higher coffee can grow.
     In certain areas of Ecuador, coffee is grown as high as 9,500 feet above sea level, but as you move to the southernmost growing regions of Brazil, coffee can only be grown at 2,000 feet due to the frost zone.

ELEMENTS

A balanced diet and exercise are key to a healthy life, right? I am sure you are shaking your head yes, as you drink your tenth cup of coffee. A coffee tree’s diet starts when it is a wee little sprout. A coffee tree spends its first year being meticulously cared for in a nursery, after which it is transplanted to the field where it will grow for three to four years before producing a full yield. Each year a tree will produce one to two pounds of green coffee, as long as it has the proper elements.


Soil

The foundation of a healthy tree is the soil. The soil must be rich in nutrients, such as potassium and nitrogen, and the correct pH level is also important. Coffee trees prefer a slightly acidic pH level, which is why they do so well in volcanic soil. The soil should allow water to run off during heavy rains but also retain moisture during dry spells.
     As the trees grow older they begin to use up the nutrients that the soil has to offer. In order to replace them, some form of fertilizer must be used. The most readily available source of fertilizer is the pulp that is left over after the bean is removed from the cherry. This is put in a compost pile just like what any gardener has pushed in the back corner of their property. This compost can be used in tandem with chicken manure or chemical fertilizers.

Sunlight

Photosynthesis, the envy of every lazy person. If only we could lie out all day soaking up energy from the sun. However, coffee trees prefer sunlight in moderation, which is why shade trees are so important. Shade trees are a key piece of the puzzle for the environment, as they provide rest stops and homes for migratory birds. But they are also crucial to limiting the amount of direct sunlight that the coffee trees receive. Too much sunlight will dry out the root system of the coffee tree, leading to an unhealthy crop.
     Another source of shade is the cloud cover that is common in tropical regions. Generally the microclimate in the region of the farm will have predictable cloud cover at certain times of the day. This is a factor in creating the signature coffee development from region to region.

Rain

Rainfall is the top level in the coffee trees’ food pyramid. Coffee will flourish with 60 to 80 inches of rain annually. Just as important as the quantity of rain is the timing. Rainfall is like the messenger to the coffee tree telling it what season it is. The seasonal patterns of rainfall trigger the growth of the coffee tree blossoms and ultimately set the schedule for harvest. Not enough rain and the drought will damage production. Too much rain can also negatively affect crops.

VARIETIES

Just like any agricultural product, coffee has many different varieties. Coffee is often compared to wine, and this is one more subject where the comparison is useful. In the wine industry there are many different species of grape: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and on and on. Each variety has its own distinct characteristics, everything from how it is grown and processed to its flavor characteristics. Coffee also has many varieties, although they are not as well known. These varieties can be separated into two large categories: originals and hybrids.

Originals

The original varieties are coffees that are naturally occurring. These are coffees that are as old as the trees (pun intended). The most widely known are typica and bourbon, which when grown at high elevation and processed correctly, can produce superb-tasting coffees. But there are two challenges with them. The first is that they have a lower yield potential than other options. The second is that they do not stand up to disease and insects very well.

Hybrids

In the early 1970s, the coffee industry faced major problems with disease in the coffee plantations. Plants everywhere were being afflicted with coffee rust, coffee berry disease and others.
     This spawned the beginning of hybrid varieties. These cross-bred varieties had many advantages to growers. Not only did they resist disease, but some, such as caturra, could be grown without the shade requirement of typica and bourbon.
     Over the last 25 years, a large number of hybrids have been developed. Some, such as catuai, mundo novo and caturra, are capable of producing quality coffees. Others, like catimore, produce a high yield per tree and are very resilient to disease, but do not typically produce great-tasting coffees.
     When all of these factors are combined—the elevation, soil, sunlight, rain and variety—you have a formula that creates the natural flavor characteristics of a coffee. When taking these into consideration as a roaster, it is important to remember that each origin and region will produce a unique result in the cup. Each coffee has a niche that it can fill in the coffee line-up of a roaster.
     Not every good coffee will be high in acidity with a crisp clean cup—that would be like having every hot pepper taste like a jalapeño. Instead, the different microclimates and varieties produce such diversity in flavor that there is a coffee for everyone.
     Through extensive tasting, you will find that certain growing regions will produce fairly consistent flavor profiles year to year. By possessing knowledge of these profiles, you will be better equipped to purchase and roast consistent quality coffee. And, of course, you’ll know just where to find the beans that will give you the sweet, floral, or even spicy, note that you’re looking for.

Phil Beattie is not only a connoisseur of coffee and hot peppers,
he is roastmaster for Dillanos Coffee Roasters in Sumner, Washington.
He is also a member of the Roasters Guild and teaches cupping seminars at CoffeeFest.